The Fujifilm Sq6 is the second camera from FujiFilm that uses their Instax Square film, there are three colours options, pearl white, blush gold and graphite grey. The first camera that they released that used the Instax square film was the SQ10, a hybrid analogue / digital camera. There will be a separate post for that camera. There are two CR2 batteries provided in the box, which is handy. They also include a set of three coloured gels for the flash, this is a first and adds more creative options. The lens is a 32mm equivalent, which makes it slightly wider than your eye naturally sees, compared to a full frame 45mm lens. Normally people recommend that you keep film in a fridge or possibly a deep freeze, depending on where you live, but, you can keep Instax film in room temperature if you wish, either way, you need to let it come back to room temperature before you use it, try not to let it get too hot though, as that may interfere with the chemicals. One useful feature that this camera has is a tripod mount, which some Instax cameras don’t have. When you buy one of these cameras, like other Instax cameras, you need to buy some film, as there is no free pack in the box, you can buy bulk boxes from Amazon, should you want to.
When loading the cartridge make sure that the yellow spot on the film canister and the one on the camera match up, this means that you have correctly loaded the film. The photo develops in 90 seconds or so, depending on the air temperature. Eject the dark slide before you start taking photos, to do this, you just need to hit the shutter button. If there is yellow showing in the tiny window, it means that there is a film in the camera. You do not need to shake the photo, as doing so messes up the chemicals, you just need to hold the photo by edges or bottom, the photo will develop on its own.
Due to the parallax error, you will need to give your subject extra space at the minimum distance so that you get everything you want in the frame. Parrallex error occurs when the viewfinder and the lens do not have a mirror, or when they have no connection, this means that what your lens sees and what you see in the viewfinder are not the same thing. You will need to compensate for this effect. You use the circle in the viewfinder to help compose your image. The counter tells you how many shots you have remaining.
Another useful feature is that you can use the timer in all the shooting modes.Shooting Settings are: Macro, shoot closer up at 40cm-50cm (just before and after elbow length away) rather than 60cm. Lighten and Darken Modes, this allows you control exposure a bit more by increasing or decreasing the exposure. Self Timer, this is a 10 second self timer. The red light will go on and just before it takes the photo the light will blink. Hit the button twice and you can get two photos out of the self timer.
Macro Mode changes the viewfinder, you have a better idea of what you are going to get. Use the lighten mode to keep subject brighter. You can mix lighten and darken modes with other modes, like macro.
To get out of a mode hit the button again when nothing appears on the screen you know that the settings are back to basics.
You can switch the Flash off should you wish. settings will always flash when you hit the button once, the second time, you will activate red eye reduction, the third time you hit the button you can turn the flash off. It has a range of 2.7 meters if anything is further away than that the flash will not light them. The light from the flash is not flattering if shooting people, outdoor or window light is better to use. You can place a piece of masking tape over the flash to soften the light from it. You can turn off the flash should you wish too.
The self timer is 10 seconds long and will stay solid for 7 seconds and will then flash for the last 3 seconds just before it is about to take a photo. When the little red light on the back is solid you can shoot if it is flashing, the flash is recharging and you need to wait as the camera will not work.
Shooting Modes can be selected either by hitting the mode button on the back of the camera or by moving the ring on the front of the camera.
Shooting Modes are:
A (Automatic exposure), Good for low light situations, longer shutter speeds, will use the flash will try to brighten up the image.
Selfie (Person), Adjust focusing distance and brightness.
Macro (flower), shoots between 30-50cm. Switch off the flash as sometimes the flash goes off. Target in viewfinder should be top right of a macro image. Bottom left quarter for composing image.
Landscape (mountains), Changing focus distance of the camera from 60cm or 3 meters to 3 meters to infinity.
Double exposure mode (two boxes over each other), you can put two images on the one sheet of film. Shadow in the first image is where the second image will be seen.
Lighten (L) to increase the exposure of a shoot manually, this makes the image brighter, which is useful if the image looks like it will be too dark, similar to this, if you want to darken a too bright image, use Darken (D) to decrease the exposure of a shoot manually.
When using the gels, maybe increase the exposure to compensate for the presence of the gels, the same idea is applicable to double exposures, you may want to darken the exposure so that the image is properly exposed in the end, as you are adding more than one photo on each piece of film, the overall photo gets much more than light than a single exposure, so if you darken the individual photos, you will get a well exposed final image. Double exposure mode (two boxes over each other), you can put two images on the one sheet of film. Shadow in the first image is where the second image will be seen.